Located at the end of the long headland west of Gumbet, several small bays faced by a sheltering island have created an area of such natural beauty and crystal waters that the local name for this idyllic spot is the Aquarium. The Aquarium is accessible only by boats, which bring their passengers to swim in pristine waters over a sandy bottom visible to depths of up to 20 meters.
Continuing on past Karaincir the visitor passes the towering seaside mount of Aspat, with its Ottoman fortress on the summit and the ruins of an old Greek Chapel on its slopes to the old fishing village of Akyarlar. At one time Akyarlar was a popular Greek summer resort as several of the old houses that line the shore attest. Until recently the main occupation of Akyarlar was fishing and the small harbor would fill with the local fleet.
Today the Greeks have retreated to the nearby island of Istankoy just 5 km. across the straight and the fishing fleets have been replaced by daily tour boats but Akyarlar still retains its small intimate atmosphere. The bay consists of the small harbor at one end and a curving beach flows off in the opposite direction. Small pensions and restaurants line the shore featuring the catch of the remaining local fishermen.
Past Kargi, around a small headland by sea or over one of the fingerlike ridges if travelling by land is the small bay called Bagla Koyu. Like Kargi Koyu, Bagla also offers one of the most pristine bottoms extending far from the shore. With some of the best swimming to be found in the area, Bagla is popular with the daily tour boats that stop there regularly.
Just outside Bodrum harbor lies the small bay of Bardakci, the local Turkish expression for water seller. Perhaps the modern name for this small bay derives from Bardakci's claim as the site of the ancient fountain of Salmacis. Legend has it that here, in a clear pool; Hermaphrodites became so enamoured of his own reflection that the nymph of the pool joined their bodies in one forever, the Hermaphrodite.
Today Bardakci features luxury hotels, small pensions and varied seaside restaurants surrounding a sandy beach. A popular stop for the local daily boats Bardakci is only a few minutes walk over the hill between the marina and Gumbet.
This broad beach is easily accessible by one of the many dolmuses in Bodrum, which will usually stop in Bitez village before running along the beachfront past a number of hotels and restaurants. Numerous jetties run out from the shore for swimming and sunbathing. Beyond the beach, reached by dry riverbeds, lie hundreds of acres of private mandarin groves tended by the citrus farmers of the area. The other name for Bitez is Agaçli ('Full of Trees'), and together with Ortakent it is the main citrus growing area on the peninsula. The beach is most popular with watersport enthusiasts and sunworshippers a like.
The shallow bay is popular with daily tour boats, which normally call in for an afternoon cup of tea or a cool beer. Campsites are set among the trees and local boats may be hired from any one of the jetties. The restaurants and bars are quite active in the evening, and with dolmuþes running late into the night Bitez offers an alternative to Bodrum nightlife.
Midway along the peninsula's north shore, nestled in a huge bay are the two quaint villages of Turkbuku and Golkoy. Safely tucked in the surrounding hillsides on the west side of the bay and sheltered by two islands the village of Turkbuku is a natural haven for area fishermen, who still operate from the many wooden jetties along the beachfront. Just outside the bay are popular fishing grounds for dil baligi, or sole.
Further on, at the foot of the bay, the village of Golkoy occupies a verdant green valley fronted by a long sandy beach with small pensions and restaurants. The delights of Golkoy are many, but perhaps foremost among them is the ability, to enjoy the quiet native atmosphere of fishermen, farmers and tradesmen going about their daily tasks with little concern for the noise and hustle and bustle of modern life.
Recently become almost a resort unto itself, the sheltered bay of Gumbet is only two-KM west of Bodrum. So called from the numerous white-domed rain cisterns in the area, Gumbet features one of the longest and most popular beaches on the peninsula, the water is warm and the shallows gradually slope from the shore. A cool breeze blows in from the mouth of the bay even on the hottest days. As a result Gumbet is also one of the most popular watersports centers, with dinghyhire, water-skiing, windsurfing and parasailing available of the broad, sandy beach.
The popularity of Gumbet has also generated serious nightlife and the streets of Gumbet vibrate 'til dawn with the music from numerous bars and streetside cafes.
This peaceful village is one of the oldest settlements on the peninsula. It has modest restaurants and several pensions and motels, but it retains a small-scale atmosphere for the simple reason that most of the village is designated an official archaeological site so that no landscaping alterations or new groundbreakings are allowed.
This status is designed to protect the ancient site of Myndos, which is partially covered by Gumusluk. The original Lelegian city of Myndos stood a few kilometers southeast of here. In the 4th century BC King Mausolus decided to build a new Myndos and transplanted the entire population. A hundred years ago there were ruins worth seeing (including a theatre and a stadium), but now these have disappeared, being gradually dismantled for the foundations and walls of new buildings.
If you walk for ten minutes to the bay north east of Gumusluk you will see a buried wall jutting from a hillside into the sea. While the area'' archaeological status forbids diving with tanks, snorklers will find more walls under water here, as well as an ancient breakwater in the harbor, Those visiting by boat will want to stay close to the island on the eastern side of the entrance to avoid hitting underwater structures.
The island, known as Rabbit Island by the locals, separates the two well-sheltered bays of Gumusluk. If you sit in a shoreside restaurant and watch for a while you will see rabbits on the island. A villager who sells them in markets elsewhere raises them there. It is possible to wade to the island through knee-deep water and sunbathe and dive from the many rock formations. Several restaurants have terraced roof, perfect for enjoying the tranquil scene or for watching the sunset. The restaurants supply food of surprisingly good quality in an uncrowded environment, and the ones by the harbor are typified by their rushwoven umbrellas.
On the route back to Bodrum it is possible to see one of the few remaining working windmills in the area; facing northwest to catch the prevailing summer winds to drive the blades, it grinds locally grown wheat by the traditional method.
A few minutes drive east of Yalikavak, past magnificent roadside rock formations and towering mountain peaks covered in pine forests, brings you to the secluded village of Gundogan. The old Greek name 'Farilya' means 'Sunrise' and is still visible on some signposts. At one time most of the inhabitants lived by the seashore supporting the main local industries of fishing and sponge diving, but fear of British gun boats during the First World War caused the villagers to move inland, leaving the waterfront spacious and uncrowded.
Once an important fishing center, Gundogan's major economies are now agriculture (primarily citrus fruit) and tourism. A few small but comfortable hotels dot the beach, and the intimate seaside restaurants proudly serve the fresh catches of Gundogan's remaining fishermen. A seaside road occupies most of the available beachfront but the numerous jetties jutting from the shore provide plenty of comfortable and private spots for sunning and swimming. Daily boats for hire are available from the small harbor.
Gundogan also offers some interesting historical sites. Across the bay is Küçük Tavsan (Little Rabbit) Island, where and old Greek Church is clearly visible atop the hill. A step climb up the ridge just outside the upper village leads to a flight of 50 steps cut into the rock and the entrance to a small but spectacularly sited monastery. In addition, on the far side of the main Yalikavak-Torba road, across from the upper village, an old Ottoman tower pokes its head from the lush pine forest.
Six kilometers north of Turgutreis and accessible by road is the small beachside village of Kadikalesi (Judge Castle). Above the village stands a Greek church, over one hundred years old and in surprisingly good condition. Greek inscriptions are still visible above the doorway. The small sandy beach offers shelter from the summer breezes and a few small jetties and restaurants are scattered around on this quiet beach.
A short walk west of Bagla Koyu brings one to the small resort village of Karaincir ('Black Fig') where the broad sandy beach is lined with hotels and restaurants and numerous sunning piers are built out over the water. This is the furthest point to the west visited by the Bodrum daily boat tours.
A fairly long walk past the village and up the hillside brings you to the Çifik Castle on Aspat mountain Aspat, abbreviated from Aspandas, means 'not suitable for ploughing', and the summit of the mountain is reached by following a narrow path and stairways through the remnants of ancient civilizations. The view from the top is one of the finest on the peninsula.
Continuing on past Ortakent Beach, one arrives at Kargi Bay. It is now possible to get to Kargi bay land as Dolmus service now serves the southern coast road but Kargi still remains most conveniently accessible by sea, via the daily excursion boats.
Kargi features one of the nicer sand beaches on the peninsula, less crowded with good swimming. In addition a couple of seaside tavernas offer menus a little different from standard beach fare.
Kargi's main attraction however are several gentle camels who have earned their keep for many years taking visitors up and down the beach.
Like Bitez, the village of Ortakent is inland of the beach. This is one of the oldest settlements on the peninsula, a major mandarin producer and generous supplier of water to Bodrum. Located to the west of Bodrum on the main road, Ortakent houses one of the thirteen remaining original tower houses in the area. The Mustafa Pasa tower house, built in 1601, has cannon embrasures along the roof and walls 60-cm thick, indicating that it was built with defense in mind.
Further on from Ortakent, Yahsi offers spectacular views back towards Bodrum, and a road descends to the wide sandy beach where a couple of boatyards mingle with small hotels and restaurants along the shoreline.
Torba tucks into a protected bay at the extreme north east corner of the peninsula. A popular residential area for those looking for peace and quiet yet easily accessible to Bodrum, Torba features a long coastline dotted with small pensions and bars and isolated stretches for private sunbathing and swimming.
Torba is also a popular haven for local fishermen and yachtsmen seeking to unload their catch or the quiet haven of the well-protected harbor. In addition a ferryboat makes daily runs across the unspoiled Gulf of Gulluk to Didim, a wonderful opportunity to view the magnificent Temple of Apollo and combine a pleasant boat trip at the same time.
On addition to the above, numerous small villages abound in the peninsula center and although lacking the obvious benefits of sea and beaches all offer special attractions all their own. Villages like Yahsi, Derekoy and Dagbelen hide such treasures as the ruins of deserted villages, monasteries and ancient rock tombs.
These seldom visited sites combined with the opportunity to meet and enjoy traditional Turkish hospitality and witness village life much unchanged as it was hundreds of years ago make a visit to the interior perhaps the most rewarding experience to be found on the peninsula.
The second largest town on the Bodrum peninsula, Turgutreis provides the visitor with a glimpse of real Turkish life combined with sufficient recreational amenities for everyone.
Turgutreis is named after the great Turkish Admiral of the same name who was born here in the 16th century. Known in the west as Dragut, Turgutreis is primarily known for his participation in the Ottoman siege of Malta. A few kilometers outside of town a waterfront memorial marks the place where he first set sail.
Today the town bearing the great admiral's name is a center for commerce on the western side of the peninsula. Produce from the surrounding villages is collected here for transport, bakeries, shops and services flourish. For the more recreational minded, Turgutreis features kilometers of sandy beaches, waterfront restaurants and bars all with a special Turkish flavor.
Midway along the peninsula's north shore, nestled in a huge bay are the two quaint villages of Turkbuku and Golkoy.
Safely tucked in the surrounding hillsides on the west side of the bay and sheltered by two islands the village of Turkbuku is a natural haven for area fishermen, who still operate from the many wooden jetties along the beachfront. Just outside the bay are popular fishing grounds for dil baligi, or sole.
Further on, at the foot of the bay, the village of Golkoy occupies a verdant green valley fronted by a long sandy beach with small pensions and restaurants. The delights of Golkoy are many, but perhaps foremost among them is the ability, to enjoy the quiet native atmosphere of fishermen, farmers and tradesmen going about their daily tasks with little concern for the noise and hustle and bustle of modern life.
Like Bitez, the village of Ortakent is inland of the beach. This is one of the oldest settlements on the peninsula, a major mandarin producer and generous supplier of water to Bodrum. Located to the west of Bodrum on the main road, Ortakent houses one of the thirteen remaining original tower houses in the area. The Mustafa Pasa tower house, built in 1601, has cannon embrasures along the roof and walls 60-cm thick, indicating that it was built with defense in mind.
Further on from Ortakent, Yahsi offers spectacular views back towards Bodrum, and a road descends to the wide sandy beach where a couple of boatyards mingle with small hotels and restaurants along the shoreline.
A 20-minute dolmus ride from Bodrum takes one through pine forests on a winding road past whitewashed water catchers (gumbets) to the beach at Yaliciftlik. The first bay after the end of Karaada Island and marking the entrance to the Gulf of Gokova, this shingle beach has several small restaurants scattered around it. The eastern end of the beach is sandy and it is also possible to swim and sunbathe in solitude by the rocks a bit further on. It is in these spectacular surroundings that you will find.
Four kilometers from Yaliciftlik ('Beach Farm') one comes to the farming village of Ciftlikkoy. The stone farmhouses are scattered around the hillside, and the main crops are pine honey collected from the beehives in the forests and figs grown in the surrounding orchards. Untouched by tourism, the village offers an interesting insight into local farming life on the Bodrum peninsula.
The overland journey from Bodrum to Yalikavak provides the visitor with some of the most spectacular scenery on the peninsula. Slowly climbing through fertile valleys, the road then tops at the mountain range running down the peninsula center, at this point providing unbroken vistas of the north and south coasts before descending to the seaside village of Yalikavak.
For many years Yalikavak has been one of the most important fishing centers on the Turkish Aegean, home to fleets of fishermen and sponge divers. Today, the majority of the local men still fork the sea. Yalikavak remains the same combining the ambiance of a hard working fishing town and the recent influence of tourism: cafes, restaurant and bars; the harbor in Yalikavak, with its fishing boats unloading their catch and the presence of sleek yachts unloading passengers, has a unique atmosphere, industrious and relaxed, foreign and friendly.
